Interview with Juanita Diusabá Yusunguaria – Chef, Sommelier, Winemaker
Current: Assistant Winemaker at Mereworth Winery, Kent, UK
Chef Years
Tell us about life before becoming a chef.
My grandmother’s cooking was the cornerstone of my culinary journey. Her craft of tamales (a traditional Colombian dish made with corn, pork meat, bacon, sausage, and chickpeas) and her singing over charcoal for New Year’s created moments filled with sights, sounds, and smells embedded in my memory. These experiences ignited a lifelong passion for culinary arts, evoking a sense of nostalgia and warmth that still inspires me today.
Before my culinary journey began, I worked for a magazine in Colombia. As a writer and journalist, I aspired to follow in my dad’s footsteps. His influence was profound, and his decision to send me to Sweden at eighteen was a bold and inspiring move that would shape my future. I’m grateful for this decision, which led me to where I am today.
Did you train as a chef in Colombia?
My journey didn’t begin with formal training in Colombia. Instead, my first role was as a barista. This experience, working with some of the best coffee in the world, was my first step into the culinary world. In this role, I began to appreciate Colombia’s culinary diversity. My journey includes various aspects of the hospitality industry, from front-of-house service to kitchen operations, which eventually led me to the kitchen as a chef.
How did you come about becoming a chef?
My culinary journey began in New York City, a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. While studying English, I found a job in a Manhattan restaurant with an open kitchen. The energy of the nighttime service and the artistry of the chefs in the open kitchen fascinated me. I spent four years learning the ropes of professional cooking in this restaurant. David Fisher and Chef Serena Chow taught me how to cook in a professional kitchen; they recently received a Michelin Star for their restaurant in California with their grand opening of 7 Adams.
The city’s culinary scene is like no other, and I was fortunate to be a part of it. The long hours, the intense pressure, and the camaraderie in the kitchen all shaped me into the chef I am today.
Sommelier Years – How did you become interested in Wine?
My dad fell in love with Spain while he was travelling for work. He used to bring bottles of wine back to Colombia and telling me the story behind them. Imagining the other side of the world through a bottle of wine gave me the curiosity of wanting to know more. Also, the sommelier appeared more interesting to me than cooking. They always have something new to share, and describing aromas and flavours that weren’t obvious to me while pairing desserts that I’d created. It was this that made me want to change my career and I gave up being a pastry chef and became a ‘commis sommelier’, this involved, carrying the ice, stocking the wines and cleaning the dust in the cellar!
Winemaking Years – What made you make this jump?
When I set my sights on a goal, I pursue it with unwavering determination. My journey is a testament to the power of perseverance and the belief that nothing can deter me from my path. My story hopefully inspires you to chase your dreams with the same fervour!
While I was working as a sommelier in London and studying the WSET courses, I was struggling with explaining, in my second language, the technical words of grape growing and winemaking; my eagerness for greater understanding led me to move to Walla Walla in the USA.
I decided to study in Washington State, winemaking in a beautiful community that connects winemakers around the world. My best way of learning is hands-on, I spent time pruning in vineyards, making wine at school, and working in my second year at my best school of wine, L’Ecole N° 41 and Gramercy Cellars Here I had the best mentors who encouraged growth and continuous learning through the interconnection with mother nature and the cellar.
What did you learn about winemaking?
My winemaking journey has been a love affair. I’ve learned that winemaking is comparable to kitchens. ‘We cook with forklifts,’ expressed my mentor, Marcus Rafanelli, a winemaker at L’Ecole N° 41. There is science behind everything; technology has been the way of making wine, and technology has been improving the quality of the wines to understand the entire process more deeply. It’s not an easy job; it requires a strong personality, a perfectionist mind, and a desire to create something that delivers the expansion of our senses and an intimate relationship between land, history, religion, and a connection with the globe.
What wineries have you worked in?
My journey has taken me to various wineries, each offering a unique perspective on winemaking. I have worked for the Walla Walla Community College Winery, Walla Walla, WA State, L’ecole N° 41, Walla Walla, WA State, Gramercy Cellars, Walla Walla, L’ecole Winery in Sonoma Coast, California, Lyme Bay Winery, Devon, UK, and Mereworth Winery, Kent, UK. Each experience has enriched my understanding of winemaking and has added to the deepening of my knowledge.
What are your thoughts about English Sparkling Wine?
The English Sparkling is now competing with other wines around the world! There is a history to be shared about the vines grown and wines made by the Romans. English Sparkling Wine is undoubtedly increasing, which can be taken advantage of to define the style of English wine, which the general consumers mistake for Prosecco and Champagne. There are a number of established wineries in the UK that are delivering blends of non-vintage wines that bring the complexity of lees ageing, complementing the characteristics of citrus flavour profiles as a result of being grown in a cool climate. I believe the future of English Sparkling Wine is bright, with the potential to carve out a unique identity in the global wine market.
What have you learned about making English Sparkling Wine with Scott Gebbie, Head Winemaker at Mereworth Wines?
Precision is very important for the consistency and overall wine quality. With sparkling wine, we need to think ahead and understand the longer ageing potential of traditional sparkling wine production. Hygiene is crucial in each step of the winemaking, such as temperature control and low intervention of the wine. Wine must be approached only when is necessary to keep away from oxygen and to retain the aromas and flavours of the grape.
What do you think about English Still wines?
I had the opportunity to work with Bacchus (a white German crossing of Sylvaner x Riesling and Müller-Thurgau), which was interesting to me and has done well with the challenges of maritime, cool climate conditions such as rain, spring frost, and diseases, which can be managed within the vineyard, creating positive outcomes. Chardonnay can be complex and softened due to the lack of sunlight, which causes prominent acidity levels and lower sugar levels. Still, it can be approached by the winery with malolactic conversion (a process where tart malic acid in wine converts to softer, creamier lactic acid), chaptalisation (the addition of residual concentrated sugar), or, in the best scenario, blending it with other varieties to create the perfect balance.
Should they have more oxygen on restaurant wine lists?
I do not see why not; my fascination with becoming a sommelier is to be able to taste wines from assorted styles, winemaking methods, and new grape varietals from around the world. This brings new experiences to the palate and, with it, a better understanding of the emerging market and the new generations that are interested in more fun wines, used with creative labels, vegetarian or vegan friendly that can be unconventionally paired with food.
Women in Wine, a colossal potential?
Historically, women have been essential in the winemaking process! We have much to thank Madame Veuve Clicquot for; she played a massive role in the traditional sparkling wine method.
It is a challenging career; it demands physical work and extended hours in a hazardous environment. Women add instinct, and care, and they have a keen sense of palate. The exciting news is that different organisations support women in the wine world. I am proud to be a mentor for the Alliance of Women in Washington State, which connects and encourages new generations of female winemakers.
Has having a background as a chef been helpful in terms of profiling flavours?
Food and wine have been two essential elements on the table. The kitchen contributed to elevating my senses. I describe the flavours of the wine with the ingredients that I used to cook with because they remind me of the smell of the fresh brioche dough, the smell of the spices, or the jammy-cooked fruit flavours that can describe the different layers of flavour profiles within a glass wine. For me, wine tasting is about the flavours and aromas and the sensory memory it evokes. Each glass of wine is a memory of a sense of place, a unique experience I strive to share with others.
What is next for you?
I am excited about the journey ahead, continuing my Diploma studies and sharing my knowledge with others. I look forward to exploring European wine regions, delving into their history, and immersing myself in their gastronomic culture. The marriage between winemaking and Head Sommelier has broadened my understanding, showing me that there is not only one way of making or tasting wine, but there should always be space for creativity. I’m eager to continue and share my journey.
